Hot and hairy dotted with tiny fireman hats the Bear men stroll through town happily eating, drinking and hugging each other. Bear week in Ptown is the best week of the year. Bears are the happiest, most easy-going, politest group of tourist to visit Cape Cod and we visit during that week each year.
Blue cape sky that I have never seen anywhere else that I have traveled is like an umbrella with a stinky salty breeze and an unrelentingly hot sun make me sweat and undermine my attempts at looking cool and not like a tourist. When you live in a tourist town you both hate and love but I don’t live in town anymore and I was never a “townie” really. There are so many places that are like a piece of me that even though a trillion pairs of eyes have looked at them over the years I feel like they belong to my eyes only.
Like Black Fish Creek, Wellfleet MA
The Cliffs at Marconi Beach
It’s strange to visit somewhere that you were not born but felt more at home at, made your adult life at, met so many people who you have loved for almost 20 years and a place where you realized who you were and made your way. Provincetown is a like a cradle, a place of easy birth into adulthood. Money flowed like water, fun was 10 steps from your bed or in it, good food, drugs, beer and people abound.
Even though I married a “townie” that doesn’t make me one; only gives me a right to feel like it’s a second home. We walked the tide flats and marshes with our kids this year finding sea stars, clam worms, fiddler crabs, marsh crabs and fish. We ate ice cream surrounded by mosquitos and wiped greasy fish fingers on our shorts. Spawn and Chica drank a ridiculously large amount of Roy Rogers and chocolate croissants.
I miss the stinky smell of low tide, the big yellow moon and the cold ocean on my body but mostly I miss the people.
I love the diversity of Provincetown and was again comforted by the throngs of people moving through town. Commercial street is like a vein flowing with every manner of person with the bay leading to the ocean the artery reaching out connected to the whole world. I love dichotomy of window shopping that includes vibrators for people who don’t really want a real penis, leather rubber latex clothing that looks like a rash waiting to happen in the hot hot sun, t-shirts that say things like “Bitch 1, Bitch 2” or “Drunk 1, Drunk 2” as well as Cape Cod written on everything from t-shirts to taffy. Friday night is opening night for all the galleries and there are so many amazing artists and there is no place in the world except for maybe Barney’s in NYC that make me wish I was a millionaire.
I feel refreshed in Provincetown and always wonder why we moved away and wish we could just move back.
I remember why we moved away and those reasons still stand so I don’t know if I want to move back because of the romantic memories of cheap penis displayed in a window, sand in my toes, whales off the shore and sunshine to warm a secret pond.